Fishing big swimbaits on electronics is its own art form, and there are a few habits that separate advanced anglers from beginners.
Make as long a cast as possible
Two bite styles exist with glide baits: fish that smoke it immediately (distance from the boat barely matters), and fish that see it and cruise up slowly without committing. Fish are believed to sense the boat and sonar to some degree, so for that second, slower style of bite, distance is everything - a fish that starts the cat-and-mouse process at 80 feet has far more room to eventually commit than one that starts at 30 feet and is already nearly at the boat.
Figure out the angle fish actually want
Baitfish tend to move through a body of water in fairly consistent patterns relative to structure. Watching how they approach a piece of cover - from which direction, how high above it - and matching that with the bait's presentation convinces bigger fish far more effectively than a generic cast. Deliberately avoiding the same boat position everyone else uses on a given brush pile or rock pile, even something as simple as working a bluff down its edge instead of casting up and pulling straight out, can make a real difference.
Convert followers into biters
Big swimbaits generate a lot of followers. Two mental models help maximize those chances. Cat and mouse: in nature, prey never stops fleeing a predator, even when injured - the same logic applies to a following fish. Letting the fish simply sit and stare rarely produces a bite; deliberately maintaining or increasing distance between the bait and the fish antagonizes it into closing the gap and striking, which is exactly why cast length matters so much - a long runway gives enough room to keep the bait "escaping" long enough to trigger that reaction. Matching the fish's energy: individual fish behave almost like they have distinct personalities - some aggressive and fast, others slow and cautious - so match the retrieve speed and erraticness to how that specific fish is approaching, while still maintaining the cat-and-mouse distance principle either way.
Weight the bait properly
Simply tying on a glide bait and scoping "as-is" leaves a lot of bites on the table. Test by hitting the bait hard right next to the boat: if it kicks out straight and holds position, it's weighted correctly; nose-diving means the bottom screw eye gap needs opening or a bit more tail weight; running nose-up means the bottom screw needs backing in or a touch more weight up front. Dialing this in can increase bite numbers anywhere from 2x to 10x.